Jan
22

Fairy Tale Ending

We rented a small apartment in the Marais district of Paris for our last 3 nights of the trip.  We started off our visit in true Brian and Kate fashion and hit the ground running.  In 1.5 days, we walked the entire city, hit the Eiffel Tower, Arc de Triumph, Champs Elysees, Place de Voges, Musee D’Orsay, L’Orangerie, Rodin Museum, Note Dame…..you get the idea.  We were having so much fun being in this city together. 

Eiffel Tower

Eiffel Tower

Our first afternoon in Paris

Our first afternoon in Paris

On Thursday, 1/20, we had a nice dinner in the Latin Quarter and even though our legs were tired, Brian suggested we walk back to the apartment.  Brian bought a Nutella and banana crepe and we walked by Notre Dame with a Christmas tree still lit up in front of it.  We continued across the bridge to Ile St. Louis, a tiny island in the Seine. We had walked through Ile St. Louis in the morning, stopping to pick up a croissant for breakfast and sat on the tip of the island to eat.  Little did I know Brian had planned to come back to the same spot on our walk home after dinner.

We took the steps down to the river and stood at the tip of the island, looking out onto the lights of the city and the full moon.  Such a gorgeous spot.  Next thing I know, I turn to Brian and he said “This was a great day….but do you know how we could make it perfect?” as he is got down on one knee, ring box open.

The point of Ile St. Louis - view from the bridge

The point of Ile St. Louis - view from the bridge

As tears were streaming down my face, Brian stood up to hug me. I was in total shock.  I didn’t expect this to happen on the trip!  It was at least a few minutes of hugging and kissing before Brian asked “is that a yes?”  I of course said yes, finally registering that there was a ring as Brian slipped it on my finger.  A gorgeous ring with a blue stone that I am told is my “proposal” ring.  Brian is planning on a diamond engagement ring once we get back to New York.  Not only do I get engaged in Paris, but I get two rings?? 

I said yes :)

I said yes :)

On the walk home, I wanted to tell everyone on the streets in Paris what had just happened.  But, I am sure they could tell with the faces Brian and I had on. We weren’t cold or tired anymore.  We stopped for Champagne at a cafe on the way home.  I can’t believe we are engaged!!

My new bling

My new bling

 Brian and I have been together 24/7 for the last 3.5 months.  I couldn’t believe that he was able to ask my parents permission and get a ring without me knowing.  Our families have known about this plan for 7 weeks, when Brian asked my parents permission over Skype from an alleyway in Chiang Rai, Thailand.  He arranged for a “proposal” ring to be bought in the US and shipped to my sister in London. Now I know why Brian was really pushing to stop in Europe on the way home.  He has had this planned for months!

Place de Voges

Place de Voges

Brian was carrying the ring around all day and had a few moments of panic as a result.  As we entered Musee D’Orsay, he kept sounding off the metal detectors.  Thank goodness I walked ahead to buy tickets, becuase he ended up having to take the ring out of his pocket! haha

Later in the afternoon, when my hands and feet were frozen from the cold weather, I went to hold Brians hand in his pocket and he quickly pulled it out, turned me around to his other side (making some excuse about how my hands were so cold…) and put my hand in his other pocket.  Poor guy.

Saint Chapelle

Saint Chapelle

The word “floating” doesn’t nearly describe how I feel.  I am happier and more excited than I have ever been.  I haven’t been able to sleep for the last two nights.  I can’t believe we found each other – thank you Mary & Noah for setting us up.   I know that Brian is the love of my life. 

Sitting for a portrait to remember our trip

Sitting for a portrait to remember our trip

Jan
19

Jolly Ol’ England

After an uneventful 15 hour plane ride, Kate and I arrived in London Stansted airport at 2:30AM local time. We quickly rushed through customs, got our bags, and met our prearranged taxi driver outside the terminal. Once he found his car, our taxi driver zoomed us off to Kate’s sister Jackie’s place. Jackie was wide awake to greet us at 4AM.

Jackie was a very gracious host and we got to stay in a really neat 100 year old house with high ceilings, loft spaces, big bomb-blast doors, and a metal shop downstairs where her artist landlord makes his creations.

After catching up with Jackie we got a couple hours of sleep before heading into center city London. Our first day was jam packed. We first went to Harrods and toured the clothing and food sections. Afterwards we walked through Hyde park to my old flat at Marble Arch. We then headed to my old watering hole during my study abroad days and had a drink. The Guiness in London is really so much better then in the States.

Me in front of the Carpenters Arms

Me in front of the Carpenters Arms

We were hungry so we headed to Queensway to go to my favorite Indian restaurant that I frequented many times when I was studying in London. We walked back and forth and couldn’t find it. I finally went in a shop and they told me it had closed 3 or 4 years ago. That was a bummer. I guess you can’t leave 10 years inbetween visits without things changing.

Us in front of Big Ben

Us in front of Big Ben

After a bite to eat at a local pub, we headed over to see Big Ben. We got off at a tube stop that was a bit of a walk from the river, so we had to navigate our way through unfamiliar streets. We took our photos and proceeded to walk down the river on the southern bank of the Thames. We stopped in the Tate Modern 30 minutes before it closed and in true Brian/Kate form we saw most of it before it closed at 6PM. We then hopped over to Covent Garden to meet Jackie and the Tavares’s.

Jackie bought us theater tickets, so we headed over to see War Horse, a gripping drama following a war horse through its life in the battlefields of WWI in France. The play was actually pretty interesting because they used mechanical horses operated by 3 actors (one operating the head standing next to the horse and two operating the front and hind legs respectively). You can see the actors in plain view, but the movments and the sounds they creare are so realistic. It was pretty cool.

Kate, Carolyn, Bryan, Jackie and me after War Horse

Kate, Carolyn, Bryan, Jackie and me after War Horse

After the play we headed home. By the time we went to bed it was 7AM Thailand time so we were pretty tired.

The the next day Kate and I did a bit of walking, got some Indian food, and met up with Bryan, Carolyn, and Jackie for some dinner. Jackie had to head back to work, so we headed home to get some sleep. The next morning we woke up and had breakfast with Jackie before heading to the train station to take the Chunnel to Paris.

Jackie and Kate, right before we left to take the Chunnel

Jackie and Kate, right before we left to take the Chunnel

We had a great time in London seeing everybody. Jackie was such a great host and we can’t wait to see Bryan and Carolyn when they come to the city in a few weeks. What a great idea it was to stop in London on our way back!

Jan
16

Last stop in Asia…

We had 36 hours to explore Kuala Lumpur on our stopover between Thailand and London.  To ease ourselves back into civilization, we used points to stay at the Sheraton.  We felt pretty funny walking into a nice hotel, wearing our backpacks and clothes worn from travelling.  We were in heaven at the hotel with central air, fridge, TV, DVD player, hot water…this is the life!

The city is pretty uninteresting.  Its the weekend here, so center city is dead.  We went up the KL Tower for a view of the Petronis Towers.  Explored the fancy malls, crazy chinatown and then relaxed.

Petronis Towers

Petronis Towers

We are going through our packs throwing out everything we don’t need anymore. 

Next stop – freezing cold weather in London.

Jan
13

Bye Bye Paradise

6 nights, 5 days left in Paradise…where’d the time go? Kate and I head to Ko Lanta a little discouraged with what we found in Phi Phi, but hopeful we’ll find some peaceful beach at our next destination. We lumber off the ferry and negotiate with a tuk-tuk driver. We’re disappointed when we walk past a blinged out tuk-tuk with lips emblazoned all over the side and slide into our dusty dull vehicle.

We decide to listen to the guidebook and we find the place we’re looking for, Sanctuary. There are no cheaper bungalows available, so we have to settle for the bungalow closest to the beach. The price is slightly higher than we wanted, but we are assured that we can switch the next day.

The bungalows are no thrills shacks with a bed and a mosquito net. The walls of the bungalow are made of woven bamboo strips with plenty of light sneaking through. In the front there a glass sliding door that lets in lots of light, and I hammock flanked by two benches. Plenty of options for relaxation. In back, or I should say out back, is an outdoor bathroom. Locked off by an 8 foot wall we have the necessities: toilet, sink, cold water shower, and plants. Ahh, home.

Our beach on Ko Lanta

Our beach on Ko Lanta

We nestle in and make ourselves at home and throw on our bathing suits. We walk the 15 feet to the entrance to the beach and take in the long silky sandy beach which is gloriously less full than Phi Phi. The water is the perfect temperature; the sun is shining, paradise!

Over the 4 days we sit on the beach and soak up the sun. There’s not much to do but sit, read, swim, eat. We don’t go very far from the hotel. We don’t need to see the sites. No this beach is fine, we don’t need to see the other beaches on the island. Of course on the second day I get sick and sleep the day away. Kate gets a slight sun burn, but we keep at it. Sitting still is not our thing so it’s a fight.

Lying in the hammock on the porch of our bungalow

Lying in the hammock on the porch of our bungalow

Kate takes up long stays in the hammocks and uses the computer to research if we should be doing something on Lanta. I use the hammock to read. Life goes lazily by.

Kate at the driving range

Kate at the driving range

The 3rd day we decide we are getting cabin fever and decide to head to the driving range. We hit 80 golf balls each. I didn’t realize Kate had such a good swing. On the way to the driving range we noticed a sign we had seen a few days earlier promoting a reggae show that is now to happen this very night. We get dinner on the beach after a beautiful sunset and then head to the venue. Show starts at 8PM but we hear 8:45PM is the real time.

Kate at the driving range

Kate at the driving range

Around 9PM or 9:15PM the opening act comes on. Terrible. A one man band. The guy tees up his computer to play drums, synthesizers, plays guitar over the computer noise, and sings in Thai. The guys speaks to the crowd in Thai in between the songs. Everybody in the bar are foreign tourists, and I wonder what the bar manager was thinking when they booked the opener.

The music coming from the computer sounds as if pop-music evolved from Polka. A couple people get up to dance mockingly, Kate and I sulk. Eventually a woman gets up on stage, maybe a waitress, and rescues this guy for about 10 songs. She belts out some familiar tunes with a decent voice, and the crowd belts them back.

Around 11PM Job 2 Do comes out and starts belting out reggae classics. These Thai Rastas are pretty damn good. The lead singer has dreads wrapped up in a bandanna, looks like he is in his mid-forties and commands a big presence. The lead guitarist can wail and the rest of the band has spot on rhythm. Everybody is dancing! A great concert, Kate and I leave around 1:30AM and the band doubtlessly plays on for a couple of hours.

The next day we get massages on the beach. $10 for an hour. Can’t beach that price. They bend, they twist, and they kneed our bodies. At one point the masseuse starts to bend my left leg and I have to tell her to stop because my left knee is tight from the scar. She doesn’t understand, so I point. Ooh, she’s a little startled and then treats that leg a little more gingerly. Towards the end of the session I point to my right shoulder mime that it is still a bit stiff from my accident. She breaks out some tiger balm and works the shoulder for another couple minutes. Fini! I can move my shoulder without any stiffness or pain. Back to the sand, back to the water.

It was a great 4 days on Lanta. Now onto Phuket for a night before flying to Kuala Lumpur. Then onto London. We’re gonna hopefully ease into the cold in Europe before return to the snow heaps in New York. Bye Bye Paradise. We’ll be back!

Jan
09

Beach Time – Krabi, Ao Nang and Phi Phi

Our trip is winding down…so sad.  We chose to spend our last 12 days in Asia at the famous beaches in Thailand (we still have 6 days left).  Its the perfect place to relax, reflect on the last 3 months and of course get that suntan glow that will make us look so good in freezing cold New York City.

Karst Mountains in Krabi Region

Karst Mountains in Krabi Region

We started in Krabi which is a town on the Andaman Coast in Southern Thailand.  After a quick stop there we headed over to Ao Nang and Railay Beach.  Railay is known to have some of the best rock climbing in the world.  It was amazing to see people climb up huge Karst mountains over the water.  And even though the beach was crowded, the view and water was fantastic.

Railay Beach

Railay Beach

Rock climbers - can you see them?

Rock climbers - can you see them?

Ko Phi Phi is supposed to be one of the most beautiful islands down here.  They did have some beautiful beaches, but the islands was packed with meat heads that were just there to party.  I guess you really are 30 years old when drinking your face off every night doesn’t sound like the best vacation. hahah.  We still had a good time (the key was getting up early while everyone else slept in)… we swam, snorkeled, hiked and visited the neighboring island, Phi Phi Leh. 

Have snorkel gear....will hike

Have snorkel gear....will hike

The viewpoint on Ko Phi PHi

The viewpoint on Ko Phi PHi

We are heading to Ko Lanta today.  Sounds like it will be more our speed.  We hear there are great beaches, chill vibe and reggea bars….can’t wait.

Motoring into a secluded cove on Phi Phi Leh

Motoring into a secluded cove on Phi Phi Leh

Jan
02

Waterworld

Our $9 room in Siem Reap has AC, a fridge and a television! We turned to one of the 2 English channels last night and found the movie Waterworld just starting. This is one of my fathers favorite movies…although I’m not sure if he should admit that since most people think its awful. As we were reading our guidebooks and updating our journal, we watched most of Waterworld. Having a TV, and finding a movie in English was such a treat.

Today, as luck would have it, we went to the real-life Cambodian version of Waterworld! Kompong Pluk is around 17KM outside of Siem Reap. It is a flooded forest where hundreds of homes are built on stilts 6-7 meters in the air. Long ladder type stairs lead from the water to the homes, and you can see by the discoloration on the wood how high the water goes during monsoon season. The residents here survive on fishing and it was so interesting to see everyone on their boats fixing their fishing nets and sorting fish.

Kompong Pluk

Kompong Pluk

Every few houses had a floating wooden cage with a pig inside. And, we even saw floating deck-type structures that they used for growing crops. Kids are master rowers at a young age and we even saw young (maybe 2-4 year old) unclothed kids jumping from boat to boat. I guess waterwings are not a necessity here. These kids live on the water.

Kids in Kompong Pluk

Kids in Kompong Pluk

We took a small longtail boat through the sunken forest. There were hundreds of huge tree trunks growing out of the water.

The sunken forest

The sunken forest

We visited Kompong Pluk during the dry season, so the community actually has a dirt road between 2 rows of homes. The residents were taking advantage of having solid ground to stand on. There was a group of guys playing volleyball and there were dozens of mats laid out in the sun to dry little shrimp.

The main drag in dry season

The main drag in dry season

Drying shrimp

Drying shrimp

You really have to see Kompong Pluk to believe it. I thought places like this only existed on movie sets. Dad, I think you should come out here someday and see the real Waterword. haha

Houses on stilts

Houses on stilts

Jan
01

Brian and Kate, Tomb Raiders!

Angkor Wat, an untamed land teaming with wild tourists.  Temples shrowded in the flashes of cameras.  A glimmering oasis in the warm Cambodian jungle…

Angkor Wat is just one of many temples in Angkor an area just outside the city of Siem Reap, Cambodia.  Kate and I arrived in Siem Reap via bus and were picked up by Mr. Jacky, sent by our pre-arranged hotel, who ended up being our tuk-tuk driver for the next 3 days.  We got to the hotel and were swiftly driven to another hotel run by the same manager since the original was full.  At $9 bucks a night the room was a pretty good deal.

The next morning we were picked up bright and early and headed to the main shabang, Angkor Wat.  Why mess around, just go straight for the gold.  After stopping for our 3 day passes, Mr. Jacky dropped us off in front of the main temple entrance, pointed where should meet him afterward, and sent us on our merry way.

In front of us was humongous moat that surrounds Angkor Wat.  We walked the football field long land bridge that brought you to the outer walls of the temple complex.  Once through the wall, Angkor Wat in all it’s glory lay in front of us another couple hundred meters away.

Steep temple steps

Steep temple steps

It is pretty amazing how they built the temple.  It is built of huge blocks of stone and they didn’t use any mortar, so they had to grind each stone onto its neighbor to create a seemless joint.  We walked through the endless maze of halls with their beautiful carvings, and then we ascended the central tower which was really steep. From the top there was a great view of the surrounding temple and compound.

View from the top of Angkor Wat

View from the top of Angkor Wat

After meeting up with Mr. Jacky we went over to the next temple, Bayon.  This temple was unique because it had quite a few huge faces carved into the temple.  Again, we climbed the steep temple steps to get a closer look.

The faces of Bayon

The faces of Bayon

After a couple more temples we stopped at Ta Prohm where the prototypical Angkor photo of a temple with roots growing on it is taken.  It is also where they filmed one of the Tomb Raider movies.  This was one of our favorite temples, and we ended up coming back the next day when it was less crowded.

You can call her Lara Croft (Ta Prohm)

You can call her Lara Croft (Ta Prohm)

Onward and outward, we spent the rest of the day looking at temples.  It really became a blur, but by the end we did a day and a half of temples in one day.  Kate and I were pooped.  The next morning we were to get up for sunrise at Angkor Wat so we had an early night.

Angkor Wat at sunrise

Angkor Wat at sunrise

Dec
30

On the Road Again…Next Stop Cambodia

Brian’s stitches are healing nicely and he is mobile again.   Since we had become friends with the family that owned the guest house we were sad to leave Phu Quoc Island.  But, we are ready to get back on the road and Cambodia is our next stop.

Our last sunset in Phu Quoc

Our last sunset in Phu Quoc

After an arduous border crossing, we arrived in Kep on the southern coast of Cambodia.  Kep is known for fantastic seafood, especially crab.  We spent an evening having the most amazing prawns and we tried to eat crab, but quickly realized that we have no idea how to. haha.  The little meat we did get out of the crabs was great. 

Great dinner in Kep

Great dinnerin Kep

The next morning, we jumped in a cab and headed to Phnom Penh, the capital of Cambodia.  Along the way we stopped at the Killing Fields where 10′s of thousands of people were murdered between 1975-1979 by the Khmer Rouge regime.  It was a very somber place to visit.  The main stupa has thousands of skulls  that they unearthed.  And, you can still see teeth and bone fragments on the ground. 

Once we got settled in a hotel in Phnom Penh, we headed to S-21 (Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum).  While the Killing Fields were tough to see, it was a pretty calm place with trees and grass.  S-21 on the other hand was an in-your-face account of the atrocities that happened under the Khmer Rouge regime. 

S-21

S-21

S-21 used to be a High School and then the Khmer Rouge turned it into a Security Prison.  For 4 years, the Khmer Rouge cycled through 17,000 people, holding them for months at a time, torturing them, until they were sent to the Killing Fields to be executed.  The photos they had on the walls, blood stains still on the floor and the descriptions we read about the treatment of the inmates were all really tough to handle.  How people could be this severe and unethical is beyond me.

Pictures of S-21 inmates

Pictures of S-21 inmates

Its hard to understand that millions of people were murdered.  We did our best to shake off the feeling that we had from our day of touring and tried to enjoy dinner in Phnom Penh before we head to Siem Reap.  Next up – Angkor Wat.

Dec
25

Merry Christmas!!!

Merry Christmas everyone!  We are writing to you from Phu Quoc Island off the south of Vietnam.  It is gorgeous, 85 degrees and sunny, clear water, great seafood, empty beaches and a pretty decent hospital.  This is definitely a Christmas that we will never forget.

We planned on spending 3 days here, exploring the islands deserted beaches, touring the famous fish sauce and pepper farms and eating great seafood.  Looks like we will be spending closer to a week here … here is what happened.

We rented 2 automatic motos to have our freedom to beach hop all over the island.  Our first day, we planned on heading south to Sao Beach.  It was a 45 minute ride on Phu Quoc’s main roads which consist of one paved lane and red dust paths on either side for motos to move to if trucks come.  We arrived at Sao Beach and had a fantastic day relaxing on lounges under an umbrella and eating a great seafood lunch with fresh fruit smoothies.  The water was clear and warm…perfect.

Sao Beach - Phu Quoc

Sao Beach - Phu Quoc

We left the bach around 4:00pm so that we could take our time exploring the Western side of the island on our way back to the hotel.  We stopped at the southern end of Long Beach, amazed that such a beautiful beach was completely empty.  Then stopped at the pearl farm just as they were closing.  They grow pearls right off the coast, so I picked up some new earings ($15) as a memory of our time here.  We then decided to drive the 15 minutes back to our hotel to enjoy the sunset at our beach.

A great lunch at Sao Beach

A great lunch at Sao Beach

The road we were driving on was a red dusty/dirt road.  Our inexperience on motos caught up with us as we pulled out of the Pearl Farm and 5 minutes later, Brian had a fall.  I’ll leave out the gorey details, but our evening involved lots of blood, visible bones, helpful locals, a visit to the hospital, lots of sign language since nobody speaks English, major stitches (brians first!), x-rays and pain meds.  Brian is so lucky that he will be walking away from this accident with no breaks and only a few narley scars on his elbow and knee…it could have been so much worse.

So, as we relax and Brian heals, we remain at beautiful Phu Quoc island.  This will definitely be a Christmas to remember.

The view from our bungalow. Not a bad place to recover.

The view from our bungalow. Not a bad place to recover.

Dec
20

Suited Up

After a magical trip to Halong Bay, Kate and I hopped on a plane to Danang and caught a taxi to Hoi An.  We figured a one hour flight and one hour taxi ride was preferable to a 14 hour train ride.  We are definitely over long train rides. 

Hoi An is another UNESCO World Heritage city and the French Colonial architecture looks very similar to Luang Prabang, Laos.  The main attraction as it turned out was … shopping!  It seems like every store front is either a custom tailor or shoe shop with a spattering of restaurants. 

Hoi An

Hoi An

Kate and I came prepared.  On our bus trip to Halong Bay I had overheard a fellow traveler rave about a tailor he used just days earlier.  We arrived in Hoi An, dropped our bags and ran over to see Mr. Xe (pronounced “Mr. Z”)  Mr. Xe is a 5′ nothing flamboyant little man with a quivering lip as a tick.  He is very touchy feely.  Mr. Xe took the most exact measurements i have ever had while being fitted for a suit.  After requesting for me to take off both my shirt and pants, Mr. Xe used his measuring tape quite literally and ended the fitting with a smack and pinch on my butt.

Kate and Mr. Xe

Kate and Mr. Xe

2 suits, 1 blazer and 3 shirts later I have spent way too much time nearly naked in front of this funny man!  During one of the numerous fittings over the 3 days in Hoi An, Mr. Xe offered Kate a free suit in exchange for 30 minutes with me that evening.   More disturbing was Kate’s slow response which told me she was considering the proposal.  

Vienamese Sandwiches - Yum!

Vienamese Sandwiches - Yum!

One of my new suits

One of my new suits

Our time in Hoi An consisted mostly of visits to Mr. Xe for fittings, custom sneakers, many visits to the Vietnamese Street sandwich vendor and a visit to the beach.  7pm the night before our departure we sent our box of new clothes home.  Thanks Mr. Xe.  Kate and I will be looking sharp when we get home.  Everything turned out great despite the laborious process.

Fishing boats at the beach near Hoi An

Fishing boats at the beach near Hoi An

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